The textile industry is one of the most resource-intensive sectors and generates significant amounts of waste and emissions. In 2020 alone, approximately 6.95 million tonnes of textile waste were generated in the EU. Worldwide, 92 million tonnes of textile waste end up in landfills      in the Global South or in incinerators every year. Mixed polyester-containing waste from fast fashion, workwear or industrial cleaning textiles in the lowest waste category is among the most difficult residual materials to recycle. The EU's Circular Economy Strategy therefore promotes circular processes in the textile sector.

From feasibility study to policy recommendation

In a joint feasibility study, the Fraunhofer Institute for Applied Polymer Research IAP at Potsdam Science Park, Beneficial Design Institute GmbH and matterr GmbH (formerly RITTEC 8.0 Umwelttechnik GmbH) investigated how polyester-containing waste textiles can be converted into the bioplastic polyhydroxybutyrate (PHB).

"With our innovative matterr process, we recover the monomers terephthalic acid (TA) and ethylene glycol (EG) in virgin quality from polyester-containing textile waste – suitable for the production of new polyester," explains Dr. Tim Seedorf, Head of Research & Innovation at matterr GmbH. "We have also shown that the ethylene glycol obtained can be converted into the biopolymer PHB with the help of bacteria," adds Dr. Maren Wandrey, biochemist at Fraunhofer IAP. An analysis by the Beneficial Design Institute further shows that establishing a textile hub in Brandenburg can make a significant contribution to strengthening the regional circular economy through the sustainable use of textile waste and the establishment of new value chains.

The policy paper translates the consortium's findings into concrete recommendations for political decision-makers in Brandenburg.

PHB: Benefits for the economy, society and the environment

PHB is a bioplastic that is completely biodegradable, resorbable and biocompatible. Professor Friederike von Wedel-Parlow from the Beneficial Design Institute emphasises: "PHB combines ecological advantages with economic potential in new markets. Our research has made it clear that designers, scientists and industry can jointly develop solutions that harness these advantages for society and the economy, turning make ecodesign thinking into a success story, also for Brandenburg."

The bioplastic has a wide range of applications, especially where materials remain in the environment permanently – for example, in water, soil or the human body. Examples include geotextiles for erosion control, artificial shoreline reinforcement, tree and branch protectors, or medical products such as suture material.

Action options for a circular textile economy

The policy paper recommends a multi-stage action plan to lay the foundation for a circular textile economy in Brandenburg. It comprises six key recommendations. Clima State Secretary Dr. Haase explains: "The goal is to retain value creation in the region, establish qualified jobs and position Brandenburg as a model region for this EU initiative. The project consortium's policy paper and the preliminary study results contribute to bringing together ecological sustainability and economic strength in Brandenburg."

The results also have supra-regional significance with potential for close cooperation between Brandenburg and partners in Poland and the Netherlands. Through these collaborations, the state can strengthen its position as a pioneer in the circular economy and build European value chains that incorporate design-driven added value.